Designer three

Jean Paul Gaultier

On the 24^th of April 1992 Jean Paul Gaultier was born, in France. Gaultier is a very well known French Fashion Designers.

Gaultier never went to a university, so he never received any training as a designer. As an alternative, he just started sending sketches to famous couture stylists at an early age. The designer Pierre Cardin was very amazed by his talent and so hired him as an assistant in 1970 Later on in Gaultier worked with Jacques Esterel in and Jean Patou, both in1971. Then in 1974 he returned to manage the Pierre Cardin boutique in Manila for a year.

In 1976 he released his very first collection. Gaultier has long been known as the enfant terrible of French fashion. Most of his collections following have been based on street wear, focusing on popular culture. However his Haute Couture collections are very formal yet at the same time unusual and playful. Most people found his designs decadent at the time however Fashion editors, notably Melka Tréanton of Elle, Claude Brouet and Catherine Lardeur of French Marie Claire, were seduced by his originality and then straight away became aware of his mastery of tailoring and later launched his career.

Gaultier introduced man-skirts in 1985. He also produced sculptured costumes for Madonna during the nineties; he started with her infamous cone-bra for her 1990 Blond Ambition Tour, and he also designed the wardrobe for her 2006 Confessions Tour. In 2004 at the bread exhibit in Paris, Gaultier caused astonishment by using alternative models for his exhibitions, for example older men, full-figured women, pierced and heavily tattooed models, and by playing with traditional gender roles in the shows. This earned him both criticisms but also enormous popularity.

Gaultier has designed the wardrobe for many motion pictures, including Luc Besson's The Fifth Element, Pedro Almodóvar's Kika, Peter Greenaway's The Cook, the Thief, His Wife & Her Lover, and Jean-Pierre Jeunet's La Cité des enfants perdus (The City of Lost Children).

At present he designs for three collections: his own couture and ready-to-wear lines, for both men and women. Some of his active Labels include Jean Paul Gaultier, Gaultier PARIS - couture collection - and former JEAN'S Paul Gaultier, Eyewear Jean Paul Gaultier and Jean Paul Gaultier Argent. In addition his ready-to-wear line, in 1988 Gaultier extended his brand to include the label Junior Gaultier with a lower-priced tag that has been designed with a heavy nautical influence that he began to carry throughout all of his collections. A Junior Gaultier outfit was selected by Jeff Banks as the Dress of the Year in 1988,. Gaultier, a unisex collection that followed the designer’s idea of fluidity of the sexes, replaced the Junior Gaultier label in 1994 with JPG. Gaultier Jean's, a similar line consisting mainly of denim and more simply styled garments with a heavy street influence, followed in 1992, which was then replaced with Jean's Paul Gaultier from 2004 to 2008.

The thing that brought Gaultier a vast success was the advent of his haute couture line in 1997. Through this line, he was able to freely express the scope and range of his aesthetic, drawing inspiration from radically divergent cultures, from imperial India to Hasidic Judaism.

The reason I chose Jean Paul Gaultier was because of his playful style. I feel that his spring 2011 couture line relates to my subculter really well, as he uses a lot black, the hair style’s and makeup that he has used for the models is also very gothic. Even through there are coloured garments in thing collection; I feel that this line has a garment for every type of Goth, which I think is very important. This line is dark, fashionable; he uses of some great fabrics e.g. leather, which a lot of Goths wear. One of my favoutive garment in this collection is a dress which is black with a spilt down the front and when the model walks down the catwalk you see this lovely design.

Designer two

Rodarte

Two sisters called Kate and Laura Mulleavy created Rodarte in 2005. Both sisters attended U.C. Berkeley in California, Kate studied art History focused on the 19^th and 20^th century and Laura decided to study literature and the modern novel. They graduated with degrees in 2001. After finishing university both girl returned home, where they form their brand Rodarte. Their brand name “Rodarte” is of Spanish origin and was taken from their mother’s maiden name.

The Brand is now stock worldwide by many stores including Barneys NY, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Beams, Harvey Nichols, Dover Street market and many more high end stores. The Brand has a very big celebrity clientele, including Tilda Swinton, Emma Watson, Chloë Sevigny, Cate Blanchett, Keira Knightley, and Dita von Teese. At the Academy Awards both Reese Witherspoon and Natalie Portman were dressed in Rodarte. Another celebrity fan and friend, is actress Kirsten Dunst, who also go along with them to the CFDA Awards in 2009. Another friend, fan, and model is musician Joanna Newsom, who is often seen wearing their designs. Another very important person has been seen wearing Rodarte and that was Michelle Obama wore Rodarte while hosting Queen Rania of Jordan in the Oval Office on April 23, 2009

The sisters have a permanent collection in the costume institute of the metropolitan museum of art and the institute of technology museum in New York. Since starting their brand in 2005 they have been nominated for many awards

· 2006 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund - Runner Up

· 2006 CFDA Swarovski Award for Womenswear – Nomination

· 2006 Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award – Won

· 2007 CFDA Swarovski Award for Womenswear – Nomination

· 2008 CFDA Swarovski Award for Womenswear - Won

· 2008 Stella Swiss Textiles Award - Won

· 2009 CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year - Won

The Mulleavy sisters won one of fashion's major monetary awards, The Swiss Textiles Award in Zurich Switzerland, worth 100,000 euros on November 13, 2008. The Brand beat other fashion designers like Jean-Pierre Braganza, Richard Nicoll and Louise Goldin to the prize. They were the very first women to win the award and the first champion’s from outside Europe to win. One of the jury for the prize included New York fashion designer Patricia Field. Just after they received their accolade, in a radio interview Kate and Laura Mulleavy said their sibling relationship is significant to their work and their success.

  

The Mulleavys were put on the cover of Women's Wear Daily after their first collection of just 10 pieces and then they had a meeting with US Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour.

The sisters have joined forces with Gap, and most recently Target, produced limited edition pieces.  The line is a part of GO International and was released in stores and online on December 20, 2009. Tavi Gevinson is a 13-year-old style blogger and has partly inspired the line for Target; she is also the spokesperson for this new line, as she writes about it on her very popular blog.

‘Amy Westcott is credited as the costume designer for the 2010 drama film Black Swan, and received several award nominations. A publicized controversy arose regarding the question who had designed 40 ballet costumes for Portman and the dancers. An article in the British The Independent suggested those costumes had actually been created by the Mulleavy sisters. Westcott challenged that view and stated that in all only 7 costumes, among them the black and white swan, had been created in a collaboration between Rodarte, Westcott, and Aronofsky. Furthermore, the costumes for the ballet corps were designed by Zack Brown (for the American Ballet Theater), and slightly adapted by Westcott and her costume design department. Westcott said: "Controversy is too complimentary a word for two people using their considerable self-publicising resources to loudly complain about their credit once they realised how good the film is."’ (Information about what happen with the customer designs for the film black swan)

The collection that I feel connects Rodarte to my Subculture is Spring 2010 collection. Death Valley and Vultures, Go Goth Tribal Warrior inspired the collection. Every model had her arms painted with makeup to appear like tribal tattoos, Goth lips, and their hair wrapped in webbed wool. My favourite thing about this line was that they destroyed all of their fabrics, they burnt it, tie-dyed, there were raw hems, patchwork, it was just amazing, I believe the right words for the clothes are "mangled and tattered".  This collection is perfect for the Goth world. Every Goth I know would wear the collection, its dark, and kind of sexy and just so amazing.

Desinger One

 

Yōji Yamamoto

Yōji Yamamoto is a Japanese fashion designer. He was born on 3^rd October 194, Tokyo, Japan. In 1966 Yamamoto graduated from Keio University with a degree in law, then went onto to study fashion design at Bunka Fashion College and graduated with a degree in 1969.

In the 1970's, Yamamoto formed Y's, his very first line. The show was put on in Tokyo in 1977. The collection for women mirrored a classic men's garment, as the clothes were cut in neat shapes, with washed fabrics and dark colours. The clothes expressed a practical elegance and sobriety that Yamamoto would repeat a few years later with Y's for men. Today, Y's and Y's for men have taken their place as practical, day-to-day wear beyond the bounds of fashion and shifting trends. Yamamoto open his first Yohji Yamamoto collection in Paris in 1981 and then in he followed with his first Yohji Yamamoto pour Homme collection in 1984.

Yamamoto turned into a significant fashion designer after making his Paris debut in 1981. His most successful collections are Yohji Yamamoto (women/men) and Y's, theses are the most popular in Tokyo. The stores in New York, Paris and Antwerp and other high-end department stores worldwide sell these collections. It was reported in 2007 that the sales of Yamamoto's two main lines standard above $100 million annually.

At the beginning Yamamoto's style was destructured and generous and then started evolving through time into a more structured, fitted silhouette in a spirit of couture but with a twist. Yamamoto clothes are known for a forward-thinking spirit in his clothing, regularly creating designs far-off from current trends. His signature oversized silhouettes in black often feature drapery in changing textures.
 
 In October 2009 the company bearing his name filed for bankruptcy protection in Tokyo District Court. The brand’s aggressive spending – including expansion into European and American markets – are believed to have played a part in pushing the brand into debts of more than 65 million US dollars. Integral Corp was identified as the Japanese company who will finance the restructuring of Yohji Yamamoto Inc. as the brand works towards straightening out its problems and resolving debt issues.

Career

• 1972 Y's joint stock corporation founded.
• 1977 Tokyo collection debut.
• 1981 Pret a porter collection debut in Paris. Yohji Yamamoto line started at the same time.
• 1984 Yohji Yamamoto joint stock corporation founded.
• 1996 Designed along side Red or Dead founders Wayne and Gerardine Hemingway MBE
• 1995 Designs costumes for the Heiner Müller-directed/Daniel Barenboim-conducted production of Wagner's complex opera, Tristan & Isolde.
• 2002 Haute couture collection presented in Paris. Relationship formed with exclusive Parisian boutiques.
• 2003 Opening of the Y's line flagship store in Roppongi Hills.
• 2003 Y-3 line and collection debut.
• 2003 Designs costumes for Elton John's The Red Piano show in Las Vegas.

For my subculture I choose Goth and I feel that Yamamoto’s spring/summer 2011 collection relates the most to my subculture. The most of obvious thing that drew me to thing collection was the colour black, and when you think of Goths you think of black. Another thing was Yamamoto’s painted all of his models skins white and then put very red lipstick. So a typical Goth would have very pale or white skin pared with either black or blood red lipstick and black clothes. I think that this collection screams Goth. Yes its very black but I also think it’s sexy and some of it is kind of funky because he has pared funky tights with the black clothes.

Sketch for my Muse

This is a  sketch that I drew for my muse Amy Lee.  I think it is nice and gothic, a tight black dress with a  bright red tutu sticking out. I think she would wear this because it the sort of thing you would see her wearing on stage or in a music videos.

Amy Lee

This is Amy Lee. She is the lead singer in Evenescence, which is a rock/metal band. I chose Lee as me muse before she is a totel goth. black hair, black clothes, pale skin, gothic music. She has the whole package. Amy Lee is a great Goth and a lot of people want to look like her, so she is inspiring the Goth world.